Vietnam

We kept busy by booking a street food tour via motorbike to help us branch out and try different foods outside of Pho and the usual dishes you see in the States. This was such a fun experience to be on the back of the bike while someone much more experienced zipped through the most crowded streets I’ve ever seen. We were warned several times to be careful taking videos or pictures while riding as it’s common for people to snatch your phone or camera right out of your hand. So be careful, we didn’t have anything like that happen but we were expressly warned so we rarely took our phones out. The food was fun to try, raw scallops, snail, Vietnamese pizza, soups, and noodle dishes. We booked via TripAdvisor but unfortunately won’t be recommending the company as our guide regularly coughed all over the food we were about to eat, licked his fingers in between handing us bites of Bahn xiao, and dug in his ear to relieve an itch before handling our utensils. Which, yes, I know I hear the bougie American in me as I write this but it was too much to watch and think nothing of while trying to enjoy new foods. Out of sight out of mind folks. We did get to see a lot of the city and learned a few historical things along the way. And plus, the spity finger food tour gives us belly laughs now when we reminisce about that night. 

A few days later we took a flight to Hanoi via VietJet Air which was an exciting experience. This airline is notoriously delayed so if you’re on a tight schedule either plan ahead or make other arrangements. We boarded the plane from the tarmac, found our seats, and strapped in for a short plane ride to Hanoi. One thing we noticed while in Vietnam is the lack of private space, there is no social distance in Vietnam and this was something we didn't expect but quickly grew to expect. Once in Hanoi, it was much of the same, a loud and bustling city. We stayed in the French Quarter in a beautiful apartment where in 1902, this area became the capital of the Indochina Federation and a series of significant administrative buildings representing French colonial power in the region, such as the Governor-General's office, the Supreme Court, Long Bien Bridge, and Maison Central, were built in Hanoi. Many of these French-style buildings are unchanged, preserving the city's historical charm. Being that the buildings were original and unchanged it did seem to bring roaches the size of chihuahuas that kept me up at night for fear one would run across my face. The giant bottles of bug spray as we entered should have been our first clue.

The next morning, we made our way to Ha Long Bay via another TripAdvisor reservation, “BEST SELLER- 2 Day/1 Night Cruise with All-Inclusive in Ha Long via Ha Long Bay Cruise Hunters”. The total cost for 2 people was $333 USD and was worth every penny. The package included pick up from the French Airbnb, food, Kayaking, a boat trip to beautiful caves, a cooking class, and a room that was Instagram-worthy (not to mention they upgraded us- yay!). While the cruises are a little touristy it's well worth the time and money and the pickup and drop off made it so easy! The food was incredible, they were very accommodating for a non-meat eater with tons of dishes to ensure I had something to eat. The bay is a UNESCO World Heritage site known for its emerald waters and limestone karsts that rise dramatically from the sea- an absolute must-see.

After our boat trip and careful deliberation on extending our stay for an extra day, we reluctantly decided to keep moving. The next Airbnb that we booked turned out to be the very best (Boutique hotel hosted by Thành (Scott Nguyen)). The host Scott helped us book a luxury van ride from the city center in Hanoi to Ninh Binh. This was another exciting experience where the pick-up was pretty late and we were quoted a price for one person when we had two but we were so thankful, that we had enough Dong with us as the driver made a second stop- the first was to pull over on the side of the highway to use the restroom…our second stop was again on the side of the highway where the driver got out and demanded everyone pay him immediately. This was the moment we realized the price mix-up and prayed to sweet baby Jesus that we had enough, which we did thankfully. We got back on the road for another couple of hours and again another abrupt stop in the dark where 3 cars were parked on the side of a quiet street and the driver turned and told everyone to get out. Along with the other travelers, we got into different cars that took us the rest of the way to our accommodations. As noted, this next stay was the highlight of the trip for me. Our host, Scott helped us book the ride there, his wife cooked us incredible dishes (some of the best meals we had while in Vietnam- no exaggeration!), helped us change our flights back to Ho Chi Mihn so we could stay longer, booked tours, rented us a motorbike, helped us find an ATM and gave us countless recommendations about where to go and what to see.  

We had a poolside bungalow to ourselves with AC, and ice-cold showers, and the area outside was beautiful with lush gardens, “Cat” the cat, “Bean” the dog, tables in the front where coffee and banana pancakes were served every morning. Insider tip, do not skip shoes in the room or anywhere on the porch or you’ll be shocked by the slick-as-butter floor that’s damp with the heavy humidity in the air and nearly crack your head open. Trust me, I speak from experience. 

On our first day in Ninh Binh we took a motorbike we rented from Scott to Hang Múa Dragon's Cave nearby. The drive from the homestay was incredible, the entire way had winding open roads that went through small towns. If you're hesitant to rent, ride, or drive a motor bike be brave and do it, it’s such an incredible way to get around, especially in the countryside! 

It was brutally hot which made the hike tougher than it should have been but well worth the effort. Take serious caution if you climb on the dragon at the top just like the floors of the bungalow, walking on marble that’s been oiled. While at the top we ended up running into another traveler staying at our same homestay, his name was Andrew, he was from Germany a passionate birdwatcher and avid electric music festival attendee. He’s one of the most unique people I’ve met and to this day I find myself spotting birds and thinking “Andrew would think that bird was cool’. Andrew came to lunch with us where we discussed movies, music, and our adventures over pizza, spring rolls, and noodles. All 3 of us then set off for a boat ride through Trang An. Our boat ride was amazing, the views of the Trang An took us through another UNESCO site through towering limestone karsts and lush greenery. We went through waterways, dark caves, and stopped at temples while taking in all the views- and birds.

There is so much to see in Ninh Bin and if I were to take another trip to Vietnam I'd fly into Hanoi, come back to Ninh Bin, explore more of the countryside, and skip Ho Chi Min all together. 

On our second day, we walked through the “Bai Dinh Pagoda”, well worth the visit with beautifully maintained grounds and buildings with what felt like miles of statues to walk through. The extra fee for the trams to get you from one place to the other is well worth it, especially in the extreme heat. 

A place we wished we’d had more time in was Tam Coc. This was the perfect place with lots of shops and dozens of cafes. We ate Bahn mi and drank coffee at “Cao Nguyen Restaurant - Bánh Mì & Coffee”, It was perfect for people-watching with semi outdoor seating where we got to watch the rain. 

In an effort to be as honest as possible I’d caution anyone to visit the “Galaxy Grotto Tour Center” that's nearby and was recommended by our host, not only were the lights in the caves very cheesy, our guide was pushy and inappropriate. Especially if I was a solo traveler, I’d avoid this place completely.  

Once we were back in Ho Chi Mihn we opted for a hotel and it was the best decision as it had warm showers and was clean and modern and in a lively part of the city. One of our last meals was at https://www.theshamballa.com/about which was incredibly affordable and multi-course at a whopping 36 USD- including drinks! Highly recommend eating here while visiting. 

Vietnam was one of the most uncomfortable trips I've been on, but unsurprisingly, it left me with the best memories. It's one of those places where, once you've been, you can't help but think, 'I could live here.' After the initial shocks of the country and learning a bit about navigating and what to do and not do, its countryside and affordability of nearly everything makes it an easy place to dream about living. We enjoyed fantastic massages, indulged in endless iced coffees, and even braved a torrential downpour while riding our motorbike in Ninh Binh – an exhilarating and wet ride all of which led us to meet some of the most interesting and fun people during this trip. 

Vietnam may not be for the faint of heart, but it offered one of the most unforgettable adventures of my life.